Finding Our Inner Tourist

By Ruby Bashant and Berit Brecke
October 6, 2023

Making it over the sub-alpine zone, Arianna eyes the summit of Saddleback Mountain above her. One of the High Peaks, Saddleback’s steep vertical face is a “half-dome” replica and the greatest challenge of the backpacking trip thus far.

“I usually only climb routes like this with bouldering pads,” Arianna says as she hesitantly scales a notorious off-width crack. At the top of the peak, Cooper exclaims that nobody could pay him any amount of money to go back down it again. Exhausted from the treacherous ascent, they collapse on the open rocks and indulge in a much-needed lunch. Meanwhile, in the surrounding High Peaks, Darlenne celebrates her final ascent of the trip as she confidently powers toward Lake Arnold, admiring Mount Colden standing stoically in the west.

This seven-day backpacking expedition was the culminating element of our M.O.R.E. class, which stands for Modern Outdoor Recreation Ethics. Over the past two months, all of our class sessions were spent preparing for this trip. The purpose of M.O.R.E. was to give us the resources we needed to adventure outdoors with more ethical practices. We learned about layering, food rationing, route planning, and Leave No Trace principles. Class time was spent discussing how different leadership styles, personal values, and cultures affect how we show up in the outdoors, and how to make outdoor spaces more inclusive. This class was led by our Assistant Directors Eva Wetzel and Nate Trachte, who both have backgrounds in outdoor education and heaps of recreational expertise. We asked Eva what she believes are the goals of our M.O.R.E. class, to which she responded, “To teach leadership and communication in the context of the outdoors…to further peer leadership.” Nate shared similar feelings of group growth, describing M.O.R.E. as time to “create a space where you all can be good to one another and this place, and hopefully learn interpersonal skills. Hopefully [you will] just learn how to be good people.” The positive, collective mindset shared between Eva and Nate encouraged insightful thinking that prepared us all for two successful trips.

With M.O.R.E. preparing us for the excursion there was only one more thing to do: divide groups for the trip. The New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (NYSDEC) holds strict permitting regulations in the High Peaks region due to the high traffic from people traveling in to complete the coveted “46ers” challenge. The 46ers is the term to describe the 46 mountains in the Adirondacks that exceed 4,000 feet above sea level. Recent geological surveys reported that at least three of these peaks fall short of 4,000 feet. Despite this, hikers still engage in the 46ers challenge to fulfill the longstanding tradition. One hiker in passing said that he had been working towards 46 for the past twenty years and was headed out to complete his final peak that afternoon: Mount Phelps.

Although none of us were in a position to complete all 46 this trip, we were still anxious to begin and excited to bag some peaks. Saturday, the first day of our adventure, was a warm sunny day. For Group One this meant a nice sweat over Avalanche Pass and a well-deserved swim against the cliff of Mount Colden in Avalanche Lake. With determination, Group Two took the same path from Adirondack Loj, falling short of Lake Colden and spending the night at a site just south of Avalanche Lake. Group One continued on, following the shore of Lake Colden to make their camp near the Colden outpost. That evening both groups sat down to prepare their first trail meal. After weeks of discussing portion sizes and proper nutrients for different levels of exercise, each group pulled out their fuel bottles, pumped them up with fervor, and lit their Whisperlites until they heard them whisper. Group One devoured a delicious meal of mac-and-cheese while Group Two chowed down on burrito bowls filled with beans, rice, and summer sausage. In preparing our meals and portions, we learned how to achieve proper protein complexes. An example of a protein complex is beans and rice, either consumed together in a dish or within a short timeframe. While on the move during the day, cooking on a stove was not feasible, so we resorted to more accessible options. Every day we enjoyed granola bars, tuna packets, and gorp (good old raisins and peanuts). With tummies full, Group One explored the edge of Lake Colden, admiring the uninterrupted starry landscape and pausing to watch the moon rise over Mount Colden. Moon beams lit up the ridges of Algonquin, illuminated the ripples crossing the lake, and shone warmth onto the campsite of our friends in Group Two who were cowboy camping a couple miles away.

A restful night of sleep got Arcadians pumped for the new day ahead of them. Group One ditched their heavy packs and donned day packs, ready to conquer Algonquin, the second tallest peak in the Adirondacks. Group Two opted for a new campsite, this one offering a lean-to on the south side of Lake Colden. This plan allowed Campbell, who had been suffering sleep attacks, to rest her body while others in the group did a day hike up Colden. As Group Two passed Group One’s campsite, the ranger on duty intercepted them to check in. She reminded the group about the one-mile separation regulation. It states that two affiliated groups must remain at least one mile apart at all times while backpacking in the eastern High Peaks region. This is to discourage overcrowding of certain zones of the High Peaks, which is especially important during summer months or during peak foliage, the times when most people flock to the Adirondacks. The ranger also approached Group One, and they got the chance to talk to her about tourism in the High Peaks. Kristen, the ranger on duty, told them: “We definitely see an influx of people coming to climb the High Peaks during this time…. The foliage draws people in and many are avid 46ers.” She also mentioned that numbers of people using the area rose during and after the COVID pandemic due to advertisements of the region and the numerous trailheads into the park such as those at Adirondack Loj. Kristen reminded the group to keep their distance from Group Two and to abide by additional regulations so that others can enjoy the trails in the future.

Keeping Kristen’s message in mind, Group One had a gorgeous hike along Opalescent River to Feldspar Brook where they claimed a lean-to for the night. Group Two had other plans. After another day full of sleep attacks and loss of muscle tone, Campbell made the wise decision to leave the trip early. Group Two hiked Campbell out towards the Upper Works trailhead to meet Jake (the Adirondack Semester director) halfway on the trail. Campbell, being the persistent hiker that she is, carried her own heavy seventy-five-liter pack across the finish line. The rest of the group then hiked back to Lake Colden to snatch their packs and carried on around Mount Colden to Lake Arnold where they watched the moon rise over the mountains. Tuesday morning, Group One started out for Skylight and Gray peaks at 7 a.m., with high hopes of bagging two new peaks. They began the day so excited that the group headed north on the wrong trail for 30 minutes before realizing Skylight was to the east. However, spirits were still high. Sam summed up the emotions of the group well: “The views were so good I just couldn’t be upset.” With new direction and a pep in their step, Group One ascended towards Lake Tear of the Clouds, the headwaters of the Hudson River. Reaching the intersection of the Skylight trail, they climbed the last 0.5 miles to the summit. Here they extended their M.O.R.E. class out into the peaks and got a map lesson from Eva. They also began their pizza dough as a part of Berit’s backcountry baking lesson. Meanwhile, just a few miles away, Group Two was summitting Mount Marcy, the highest peak in New York State. Nate’s alter ego of “Hanz ze alpine mountain guide” carried them up the mountain, and they dropped their packs at an intersection 0.5 miles away from the summit, peaking Marcy for lunch. “I think I see Eva on Skylight,” exclaimed Amelia as she pointed south at Skylight. Back at Skylight, Group One descended towards Gray Peak, advertised by fellow hikers as scrambly and very technical. They were dismissive of these comments, as Gray’s summit does not reach the alpine zone, and they believed there was no way it could be that hard. In reflecting back on the unexpected ascent, Group One member Meg said, “Those climbing structures in McDonald’s playground? Where you go up and over and under, up and over and under—just like that.” With pizza on their mind, the group descended back to their lean-to on Feldspar Brook for the night. Upon finishing lunch, Group Two made their way down Marcy then up Little Haystack and back down to Snowbird, the highest campsite in New York State for the night.

The next day, both groups got their move on. Group One went to Marcy Dam by way of Lake Arnold, and Group Two got a 4 a.m. start to peak Basin and Saddleback, ending at Johns Brook Lodge to camp for the night. When hiking up Saddleback, Group Two began thinking about trail accessibility and how that plays into outdoor inclusivity. Arcadian Cooper remarked, “As an able-bodied individual, I was scared s***less.” Group member Ruby agreed, saying, “I’m so glad that it is over.” Although there is a wide variety of trails throughout the Adirondacks, their rugged nature requires strong technical skills, a quality that is hard to possess by all.

To finish out their trip, Group One woke up the next morning at 2 a.m. with plans to stand on Mount Phelps as the sun rose. That plan was scrapped that morning, as health needs required them to make to the trailhead as fast as possible. With a 3:30 a.m. departure, Group One stormed out of Marcy Dam, arriving at the van at 6 a.m. They exchanged Phelps for the slopes of Whiteface and watched the pinks, oranges, yellows, and purples float over the expanding mountain ranges. With a rowdy, music-filled ride home, Group One had a productive de-issuing of group gear and awaited Group Two’s arrival. Group Two started the last day hiking solo, separated on the trail by five minutes between each person, to allow time to reflect on the past six days. There were both happy and sad feelings: excitement for the break, but sorrow for the end of the excursion. The trip ended by all of the group members calling their expedition selves out of the woods to return to civilization. On the ride home, the only noise was Fleetwood Mac and the road—the sounds of a content group.

Reflecting back on the trip, we were all proud of the places we traveled and recognized the time and effort we had put in. Nate and Eva emphasized the pillars of peer leadership, outdoor skills, wilderness ethics, communication, and community over the course of the semester, and the opportunity to put these on full display was found within the adventures of our trip. With these tools in hand, we looked forward to continuing our leadership development in new settings. Our first opportunity to do so was right around the corner, as family dinner and mid-semester break were within reach.